- Marketing Career Feature
Horticulturist Offers Tips for Scorched Gardens
by Mary James
by Mary James
October's wind-whipped wildfires in Southern California took their toll on plants as well as the homes they beautify. Now that cleanup has begun, many gardeners are wondering what to do with charred palms, barren banks and all that ash.
Here are some tips from Vincent Lazaneo, urban horticulturist for the University of California Cooperative Extension and newspaper columnist.
ASH AND SOOT
- Vegetables, herbs and fruit coated with ash are safe to eat after being washed.
- Fire ash in small quantities will not harm lawns and gardens. But, in addition to some small amounts of nutrients, ash is alkaline and contains salts. Large quantities of it would add to the alkalinity of Southern California's often alkaline soil.
- Trees and shrubs can be hosed off to remove accumulated ash. The small amount of ash washed to the ground will not harm plants or soil.
- Do not wash ash off hardscape into the storm drain system where it ultimately will contaminate the creeks and ocean. Put it and other debris into bags and into the trash. Be careful not to inhale ash particles or get them in your eyes.
BURNED PLANTS
- "Like freeze-damaged plants, singed or burned plants look terrible, but you might not be able to tell how badly they are damaged for months," Lazaneo says. "You may have to wait well into spring to learn what parts of a plant are dead or alive."
- Herbaceous, or soft-stemmed, plants that are severely burned probably have been killed.
- Lawns may recover, because the growth point of grass is right at the ground. Cool-season grasses like fescue might show new growth quickly, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda will not green up until spring.
- Woody plants like trees, palms, roses and other shrubs could be viable despite fire damage, depending on the intensity and length of exposure to heat and flame. If the fire moved through quickly, plants could recover quickly. After a lengthy burn, the damage will be worse and plants will need more time to show signs of life and new growth.
- Burned bark doesn't necessarily mean trees or shrubs have been killed. The cambium beneath the bark might be undamaged and continue to supply the plant with water and nutrients.
- Trunks and branches of defoliated trees might need protection from sunburn. To deflect sunlight, paint them with flat interior white latex paint diluted with an equal amount of water.
- Burned palms with destroyed or singed fronds could still be alive, but new growth might not appear until spring if the terminal growth bud is still alive.
- If the ground is dry, deeply water damaged trees and shrubs. Water again only when the soil starts to dry out. Roots can rot if they are kept too soggy.
- Do not fertilize until new growth begins to appear.
- Avoid pruning damaged branches and foliage. While unsightly, they protect the plant from sun and frost damage and may eventually recover.
- Roses are best left unpruned until the normal pruning time of late December or January.
BANKS AND SLOPES
- "With slopes and banks, there needs to be a distinction between landscaped and native areas," Lazaneo points out.
- Native vegetation that is burned will almost always regrow from the living portion of the plant in the ground or from seed. Do not introduce "exotics" like annual rye grass into these native communities because they will inhibit recovery.
- If you are concerned about erosion, put in jute netting to slow runoff or straw wattles to divert water. Use care not to disturb the soil, which makes it more susceptible to erosion.
- "There is a lot more latitude for landscaped banks or slopes," Lazaneo says.
- If the area is irrigated, grasses or native wildflower mixes will germinate quickly to form a temporary cover. The roots of both will help hold soil in place.
- Before seeding, apply an organic or slow-release fertilizer over the area to promote growth. After seeding, straw (not hay, which contains seeds) can be scattered to hold the seeds in place. One bale will cover 1,000 square feet.
- Wet down the straw to hold it in place and encourage germination of the seeds. Keep moist until seedlings appear and are well-established.
- These annuals are a temporary cover and will have to be mowed or removed after they die so they don't become a fire hazard.
- Do not remove burned plants because the roots will help hold soil in place and the plants can recover.
- If the area is not irrigated, cover the bank with jute netting and/or mulch to hold the soil. Straw wattles can be used to divert runoff away from the home.
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| + Enlarge | |
| SCORCHED EARTH - San Diego palm trees scorched by flames may not be dead, but it may be months before they show signs of life and new growth. CNS Photo by Don Kohlbauer. |
ASH AND SOOT
- Vegetables, herbs and fruit coated with ash are safe to eat after being washed.
- Fire ash in small quantities will not harm lawns and gardens. But, in addition to some small amounts of nutrients, ash is alkaline and contains salts. Large quantities of it would add to the alkalinity of Southern California's often alkaline soil.
- Trees and shrubs can be hosed off to remove accumulated ash. The small amount of ash washed to the ground will not harm plants or soil.
- Do not wash ash off hardscape into the storm drain system where it ultimately will contaminate the creeks and ocean. Put it and other debris into bags and into the trash. Be careful not to inhale ash particles or get them in your eyes.
BURNED PLANTS
- "Like freeze-damaged plants, singed or burned plants look terrible, but you might not be able to tell how badly they are damaged for months," Lazaneo says. "You may have to wait well into spring to learn what parts of a plant are dead or alive."
- Herbaceous, or soft-stemmed, plants that are severely burned probably have been killed.
- Lawns may recover, because the growth point of grass is right at the ground. Cool-season grasses like fescue might show new growth quickly, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda will not green up until spring.
- Woody plants like trees, palms, roses and other shrubs could be viable despite fire damage, depending on the intensity and length of exposure to heat and flame. If the fire moved through quickly, plants could recover quickly. After a lengthy burn, the damage will be worse and plants will need more time to show signs of life and new growth.
- Burned bark doesn't necessarily mean trees or shrubs have been killed. The cambium beneath the bark might be undamaged and continue to supply the plant with water and nutrients.
- Trunks and branches of defoliated trees might need protection from sunburn. To deflect sunlight, paint them with flat interior white latex paint diluted with an equal amount of water.
- Burned palms with destroyed or singed fronds could still be alive, but new growth might not appear until spring if the terminal growth bud is still alive.
- If the ground is dry, deeply water damaged trees and shrubs. Water again only when the soil starts to dry out. Roots can rot if they are kept too soggy.
- Do not fertilize until new growth begins to appear.
- Avoid pruning damaged branches and foliage. While unsightly, they protect the plant from sun and frost damage and may eventually recover.
- Roses are best left unpruned until the normal pruning time of late December or January.
BANKS AND SLOPES
- "With slopes and banks, there needs to be a distinction between landscaped and native areas," Lazaneo points out.
- Native vegetation that is burned will almost always regrow from the living portion of the plant in the ground or from seed. Do not introduce "exotics" like annual rye grass into these native communities because they will inhibit recovery.
- If you are concerned about erosion, put in jute netting to slow runoff or straw wattles to divert water. Use care not to disturb the soil, which makes it more susceptible to erosion.
- "There is a lot more latitude for landscaped banks or slopes," Lazaneo says.
- If the area is irrigated, grasses or native wildflower mixes will germinate quickly to form a temporary cover. The roots of both will help hold soil in place.
- Before seeding, apply an organic or slow-release fertilizer over the area to promote growth. After seeding, straw (not hay, which contains seeds) can be scattered to hold the seeds in place. One bale will cover 1,000 square feet.
- Wet down the straw to hold it in place and encourage germination of the seeds. Keep moist until seedlings appear and are well-established.
- These annuals are a temporary cover and will have to be mowed or removed after they die so they don't become a fire hazard.
- Do not remove burned plants because the roots will help hold soil in place and the plants can recover.
- If the area is not irrigated, cover the bank with jute netting and/or mulch to hold the soil. Straw wattles can be used to divert runoff away from the home.
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