Fueled in part by the celebrities photographed wearing them everywhere, the premium jean is encroaching on the ''little black dress'' as a fashion staple.
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DENIM DAZE - Meltin' Pot Elide reversible jeans have a light wash on one side and a darker wash on the other side for 5. CNS Photo by Crissy Pascual.
But with so many styles and brands available, narrowing the choices can be confusing. One safe harbor is the L.A. Fairchild Denim Bar in Cardiff, Calif., ( www.lafairchild.com), which has been featured in magazines such as Lucky, Self and People. Denim experts at the store can steer you to great choices for your body type.
What makes premium denim more expensive? Store owner and denim diva Laura Ann Fairchild cited several factors: the extraordinary amount of detailing, such as shaped rear pockets, contoured waistbands, adjustable waistbands, and rear and side yokes; custom-made rivets, buttons and other hardware; unique details such as printed inside fabric or hidden messages inside the denim.
Adding to the cost, denim companies employ wash houses to create new looks, which for this fall include wax denim (actual wax sheen added to the fabric); overdyed denim; colored denim (Fairchild says purple, turquoise and magenta are hot for fall); and even phosphorous-sprayed denim.
We asked Fairchild for fit tips.
PETITE TIPS
- Skinny jeans are perfect; stick to linear cuts like straight leg and cigarette leg. Stay away from pencil or peg legs that taper at the bottom.
- If you are short and want to minimize curves, choose a straight, wide-leg trouser cut. Jeans that fit like a tailored pair of trousers will give you an overall sleek and polished look. Finish with a great pair of heels.
- If you need hemming, ask your tailor for an "original hem" and your unique hem will stay intact.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Kasil jeans, Luna style: A flattering straight leg.
- JBrand, 16-inch straight-leg style: A lengthening silhouette combined with a no-fuss wash.
- Joe's Jeans, Provacateur style: Tailor-made for petite ladies, this jean is shorter (31-inch inseam) and features a higher knee break to lengthen legs.
TALL TIP
- Look for a low rise with an longer inseam (at least 36 inches). The denim industry has recently started making jeans longer and longer, so check out new styles and brands.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Kasil denim, Caitlin style: Nice and long.
- Hudson jeans, Supermodel style: Most feature a 36-inch inseam and lean silhouette.
PREMIUM JEANS - Laura Ann Fairchild, owner of the L.A. Fairchild Denim Bar, wears Rich & Skinny jeans in a blue shade popular for fall. They cost 7. CNS Photo by Crissy Pascual.
BOOTY TIPS
- Look for a stretch denim with a fitted waist.
- Avoid pockets with back flap.
- Stick to darker washes that have an all-over slimming effect.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Joe's Jeans, Honey style: Fitted waist and contoured bottom is made for curvy females.
FLAT-BUM TIPS
- Try a tapered leg or skinny jean to make your bum more noticeable.
- Even a small kitten heel will add curves to your profile; a tall heel will work wonders.
- Flap pockets will add dimension.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- True Religion, Joey style: Has a back pocket with flaps.
- Stitch's, Cherokee style: Has a slouchy back pocket with flaps.
- Hudson jeans, Supermodel Triangle Pocket: Hugs curves and adds a unique flap pocket for shape.
SHORT-WAIST TIPS
- Choose a jean with a low waist to lengthen the torso (7.5-inch rise or less).
- Jeans with long pockets or pockets that are placed lower balance proportions.
- Avoid high-waisted jeans that make the torso look shorter.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Frankie B and Taverniti So, all styles: Low waist and pockets' placement at the thigh.
LONG-WAIST TIP
- Regular to high-rise jean; try to get at least 8 inches of rise to make legs look longer.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Joe's Jeans, Muse style: A 9-inch rise makes for a sophisticated silhouette.
- Hudson jeans, Supermodel style: Longer length and a slimmer leg for a better fit.
PEAR-SHAPED TIPS
- Look for a dark, clean wash. Too much fading and distressing will widen your shape.
- A straight leg or slight boot cut will keep legs looking lean. Stay away from a tapered or pencil leg.
- Skinny jeans can work, just choose cigarette and straight-leg cuts.
- Wear a heel to add height and lengthen legs; balance out the thigh with substantial footwear like a great boot.
BRANDS/STYLES TO TRY
- Joe's Jeans, Socialite style: A best-seller; slight flare with a slimming silhouette.
- Kasil jeans, Luna style: A flattering, slim straight leg.
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